Splicing for the Professional

Splicing for the Professional

INTRODUCTION

During the life of a 35 mm motione

picture release print, it is a rare

exception ifsome Splicing is not

necessary. Each reel of a new print

from a laboratory may contain at least

one splice as the result of film stock

consen/ation or normal printing

techniques Furtherinitialsplicing may

be made in some areas by the

distributor as directecl by censor

boards. The maiority ofsplicesin a

print, however. arethe direct result of

theatrical use

When a print arrives at a theater, lt ls

a common practice to wind through

the reelsto checkfordamage, loose

splfces and cleanliness. At thattime,

trailers and short subjects can be

spliced on at the beginning orat the

end of the appropriate reel lf local

censor cuts have been directecl.

additional splicing is done where

indicated. Theaters that employ

automated protection systems require

that the reels be spliced togetherfor

mounting onto one ortwo large reels

or large horizontal platters ln both

cases. the film leaders and trailers

have to be cut from the appropriate

reels and the print sections rejoined by

splicing. At the end of the engagement,

the print has to be disassemblecl and

the film leaders and trailers resplicad

onto the correct reels Upon return to

the distributor or film exchange, if film

inspection is warranted more splicing

may be necessary to repair the print

and replace leaders and trailers. The

history of an average relcasc pririt,

therefore illustrates the importance of

propersplicing ¡fan effective

presentation is to be maintained

TYPES OF SPLICES

Historically, the most commonly used

splice in the industry has been the

overlap cernent type. As the description

implies, the two ends of the film are

ioined by overlapping; then they are

bonded by a suitable film coment This

oversirnplification will be explained in

detail later. The most common ceme¬t

splice used intheaters and film

exchanges is made on a bench-top

splicerthat includes a perforation in

the overlap area Some film cxcharges

employ an automatic splicerthat

places the overlap between

perforations Neithcr has an obvio-us

advantage, but the wider overlap

containing the perforation is considered

somewhat more durable by many

film technicians

Over the past few years, the growing

popularity of automated protection

systems and, more recently, the

limited availability of polyoster base

films, have influenced the emergence

ofthe tape splice This is a splice in

which the film ends are securely

fastened together bya very thin,

perforated polyester tape with a

pressure sensitive adhesivo Although

commonly used for many years in the

8 mm and 16 mm field, the taoe splicc

for 35 mm applications was not

seriously considered be-tores The need

tor multiple splices and the loss of

picture frames when making regular

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overlap cement splices have motivated

the populantv oftape spticing During

the assetribly and disassembly of the

large reels reouirod in automated

systems conventionalcementsplices

do in time account forthe loss of

significantpictureinformation Onthe

other hand tape sptices can be

disassemblod wiíhout the loss of even

one frame of film and then remade at

the same location Because of the

ielatively shorâtime ir* Which tape

splices have become oopušar, there is

not much delinitfveinfcrmation or

guidance currently available on the

pioperiise ofsplicing tape in making

splioes Tho Film P'oiection Practice

Committee of the SMPTE has been

investigattng commonly used

orocedureswšth the infontion of

drafting suitable guidelines to promote

stanclardization of tape splicing

methods

Tape splices can bc made either with

an overlap orwith the two film ends

butíed together There is an esthetic

advanìage to the butt~type splice on

35 mm prints, but the diffrculty in

iriaking it properfy with splicers now

widely used in theaters and film

exchanges suggeststhe overlaptype

asan ¿alternative Furthermore, the

positfoning pins on the bench~top

spticeis found in rnost theaters and

exchanges are designed to correctly

orient thefilni ends in the overlap

position The Width of the overlap with

tape splicihg is not as important as it

is; in ccrncnt Splicing. but should be

sufficicnt to prevent htiiging tur

collapset whenthe splice is ftcxed

Academy Award for Best Picture

procedures. To make a proper splice,

it is essential that the mechanics of a

film splice become familiar. An overlap

cement splice depends on the solvent

action of a suitable cement which

essentiatly welds the two prepared film

surfaces as one.

American National Standard

PH22178-1971 specifiesthe

dimensions and location of cemented

transverse splices in 35 mm film. When

using the most common bench~top

splicer, the width of the overlap area

will be 0.156 inch (3.96 mm) providing

a full~hoIe positive splice. Othertypes

of tabletop or portable splicers may

produce a positive splice with an

overlap width of0.072 inch (1.83 mm)

between perlorations or a negative

splice where the overlap measures

0.050 inch (1.27 mm). also between

perforations (Figure 1). Similar

standards (PH22.24›t965) are available

for 16 mm cement splices (Figure 2).

Standards for splicing 70 mm are not

as clearty established. There is,

however, an SMPTE Recommended

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Practice (HP-23) which describes the

reiriforcement of 70 mm overlap

cement splices with tape.

Motion picture film is constructed

oasically ofthree Iayers: ari emulsion

coating that consists chiefly of gelatin

in which silver or dye lorrning the image

is suspended; the binder, a

microscopically thin ¡ayer between

the emulsion coating and the base; and

the base (or support), a flexible plastic

material. tn addition some films have

an antistatic or antihalation base coat

or gelatin coat for added protection.

Still others have a lubricant added

on the base, edges, or emulsion side.

Any foreign substance or emulsion and

blnder still present on the film surfaces

will prevent the cement from providing

the proper solvent action to make the

splice.

Satisfactory spiices demand careful

scraping to make sure all the emulsion,

binder, and any foreign substances are

completely removed. Care must also

be exercised in cutting the film sections

so that they will be joined in frame.

Figure 3

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Courtesy Neumade Prom/cts Corporation,

Scarsda/e, New York.

This is not a problem With 8 mm and

16 mm film. Compiete removal of the

emulsion and tiirider iayers from the

spiice area can be accompiished in

severa! ways With the most wideiy

used bench~1op spiicer (Figure 3)` a

combination scraper and †ine~w1re

brush works the best. White a razor

bìade or fine sandpapercan also be

used, there is aiways the chance of

scoring the scraped area or producing

excessive dirt which can be carried

into the roll. Anothertype of bench

splicer (Figure 4) provides a rigid

scraper blade that is drawn back and

forth over the spiice area to remove the

emuision and bmder, This device

makes exceiient splices providingthe

scraper is kepi sharp and correctly

aligned in any case, when the erhuision

and binder have been completeiy

removed, an eveniy frosted scraoed

area wii! be seen (Figure 5).

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To test the sp/ice, gently I/ex the film in this way. i   ~`*›/_ fïff

The surtace on the base side of the

tilm to be joined must also be

thoroughly cleaned Caretul scraping

is needed when magnetic sound tracks

are present (do not use film cement

to remove the magnetic track in the

splrce area because too much of the

track may be removed). If the base

surface contains even a slight film ot

oil, some difliculty may be encountered

in obtaining successful splices. Very

often this factor is overlooked and poor

splices are falsely attributed tothe

particularcement usedr tothe splicing

equipment, orto the film base itseli

Sometimes it may be helptul to roughen

tne base surlace slightly When certain

tilrris resistsatisfactory splicrng An

easierand more eltectlvetechnioue

(il no magnetictrack is present) isto

apply a very smali amount of cement

to the base side splice area surface;

then Wioe it ott immediately. This acts

as a primer coating prelimlnary to the

actual spticing operation and itaids

in obtaining thorough adhesion ol the

two surfacesto betoined

When the ernulsion and bincler have

been satisfactorily removed the

Cement should be applied tothc splice

area Enough cement should be used

to wetthe scraped area, but not so

muchthat itwiil run outsidethe splice

when the two sections of filrn are

pressed together. lt is important to

allow sufficient holdingtime under

pressureinthe splicer Mechanical

adiustmentofthe splicershould

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provide unitorrn pressure across the

Width of the tilm, For current safety

film, about 10to tåseconds is

recommended, although some splicers

have heated platens to reduce splice

drying time At the end of the boncling

time, the pressure may be released and

the tinished splice rubbed carefully

with a soft cloth held over the finger

to help seat the cul ends.

As was mentioned previously, a good

splice is actually a weld whereby one

section ofthe film rs partlydissolved

into the others lt should be emphasized

thatit is importantto bringthe two

surfaces under pressure as quickly as

possible atterapplication ot the

cement It is unnecessaryy however to

slam the pressure clamp into position

sincethis resultsin splashing olthe

cement. llthe left clamp of the bench-

top splicer is raised slightlywhen the

ce-ment is applied, the cementwill be

less apt toflow underthe ftlm and a

cleaner back surface wilt be obtained

This will greatly reduce the possibility

of distortion in the spliced area when

the cement has dried. After a sutticlent

holding time, the splice may be tested

by gently flexing the film as shown in

Figure 6 Because a cement splice does

not usually attain full strength for

several hours, some care should be

exercised When handling the him if

immodiate use is contemplated.Awell

made splice should not contain any

bubbles or hazy areas that indicate an

imperfectweld.

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Some of the more common causes ol

unsalisfactory cement splìces are:

1. Old film cement from Whrch the

essential solvents have evaporated

The practice of checking a fitm

cement by its smell or viscosity is

virtually useless For everyday use

film ce-ment should be stored in smal

bottles that will provide the least

possible air space so as to retard

evaporation.

2. lnsutticientdrying time

3. Emulsion or binder not completely

removed fromthe scraped area

causing an incomplele or *aulty weld

4. Excessivo scraping scrafching or

gouging of the film base wcakenirrg

the base and causing the 'i fn to

cottapse of break at the spl ce

5. Too much delay in bringing the tilm

ends into contact aftercement has

been applied

6. Applying too much cemeni Excess

solvent actioh will cause the spl ce

to buckle During protection the

splice may cause ditticulty ir the

film gate or at a sprocket pad

roller

7. Applying too little cement rcsulting

in an incomplete weld Such splices

should be remade orthey may come

apartduring proiection

B. Poor rneclianical alignrrievt ol the

splicer This can cause a misalignczt

splice which could catch in the

proiectortilm path and tear apart

The following are some hints on the

use ol film cement:

1. Keep the splice clamped at least

10 seconds [longer if practical) after

the film ends have come into contact.

lnsufficient holding timelsa prime

cause of early splice failure.

2. Never add fresh cement to old in a

work bottle. Start with new cement

every day. Clean the bottle with a

little fresh cement before refilling.

3. Keep the work boltle of cement

tightly covered The solvent in film

cement evaporates rapidly,

4. Check the base side of the film for

oil, dirt, or other depositsl Remove

any base coating . . . preferably by

applying and then wiping off the film

cement in the splice area. Using film

cement to remove 35 mm and 70 mm

magnetic sound stripes is not

recommended because too much

stripe may be affected. Carelully

scrape the base side to remove

magnetic coatings.

5. Keep the splicer scrupulously clean

and in correct alignment. Use film

cement to remove cernent buildup

and scraps of film shavings, The

cutting bar and all surlaces bearing

on the film should also be kept clean

and sharp,

MAKING TAPE SPLICES

A properly made tape splice may be

considered quite permanent but it can

be disassembled at anytime, if

necessary. and usually without damage

to the film Tape splices are becoming

incroasingly popular among the

iheaters that use large reel prolection

or automated proiection systems. For

those who wish to use films with

polyester base (such as Kodak Estar

base), tape splices are essential

because polyester base films cannot

be spliced with ordinary solvent-fusion

methods. Some laboratories and other

special applications use sophisticated

thermal Weld splicers for polyester base

films, but most theaters and film

special devices cannot readily splice

dissimilar materials. such as acetate to

polyester or vice versa. Definitive

guidelines or standards fortape splices

have not been readily available, but

the following procedures and

recommendations are based on

considerable experience and study.

An overlap tape splice made on a

benchvtop splícer can be compared to

a similar cemerit splice with one

exception. instead of cemerit to bond

the two film ends at the overlap, a

piece of 35 mm perlorated polyester

tape is placed overthe overlap on both

sides of the film. With special splicers,

unperforated tape ls used and

perforated during the splioing

operations There is no need to remove

the emulsion and binder from the film,

although it may be desirable if the

splice is to be less noticeable on the

screen.

At the present time, splicing tape is

available in 35 mm perforated rolls

 (such as Permacel 96 Kleer~Splice),

35 mm unperforated rolls, and 35 mm

tape tabs [such as “Quick-Splice"

T35fDP, by Hudson Photographic

Industries, lnc.). There are advantages

and disadvantages with each type of

tape, but all types wili make satisfactory

splices. The main advantage of the

perforated rolls is the ability to cut

lapes of any length forfllrn repair as

well as short pieces lorsplicing.

Another advantage is the lower cost per

splice. The only disadvantage is a

possible time loss because the thin

tape is difficultto handle with

unprotected adhesive. Very thin

polyestersplicing tape tends to move

unpredictably due to static attractíon,

and efforts to place it over the splice in

registerwith the film perlorations and

splicer pins can prove very frustratlng

at times. The unperforated 35 mm

tape can be used only with special

splicers, such as the one shown in

Figure 7, that are designed to punch

out the perlorations in the tape area,

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Pefffflalefi lap@ tabs, on the other For esthetic reasons, and for added

hand, are simple to use but tend to be strength, it is desirable to make an

somewhat more expensive. Those overlap tape splice with tape sections

currently available are only four two frames long (Figure 10, eight

P€ff0f6l¡0l¬S (009 frame. Figure B] in perforationsi This procedure places

length. When making a proper splice, the tape ends at a frame line (Figure

the picture area in the adjacent frames, 1 1 ) for invisíbility and provides for a

divided bythe splice will each contain greater adhesive area.

two tape (Figure 9) ends that can be

 

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When making tape splices with a

bench-top or block-type splicer, the

following directions are important:

1. Cut the two ends of the film to be

spliced in the normal manner as you

would do when making a regular

cement splice,

2. It is not necessaryto scrape the left-

hand section unless esthetic

considerations are requested

Simply bring down the right~hand

section so that the two film ends are

¡ri contact on the splicing block

3. If you are using perforated tape on a

roll, it is advisable to have a few two-

frame (eight pertorations) sections

precut and placed on a nearby

surface which will allow for easy

graso and release.

4. Lift both sections of the splicer and

hold the film in position if it tends to

pop up Using your free hand, pick

up a precut tape section and

carefuliy place it overthe splice,

aligning it with the splicer pins and

centering it sothat eithertape end

falls on a frame tine. Press the tape

down casually to hold the two film

sectionstogether. Remove the film

from the splicer and thoroughly rub

the tape section with a soft, |int~free

cloth to eliminete bubbles and

wrinklesv

5. Turn the film overand replace it in

the splicert Place a second tape

section on the splice corresponding

to the position of the flrst tape on

the otherside.

.If you are using one~trame precut

tape tabs, fotlow steps 4 and 5, lri this

case, however, the four~perloration

tab should be applied with two

perforations on either side of the cut

film end to provide maximum

strength. To facilitate centering the

tab overthe splice, shiftthe film

sections one perforation either way

so that the spltcer pins may be used

lor proper registration of the tab.

When considering the standard

0.156" (3.96 mm) overlap width,

centering the second tab on the other

side of the film in a similar manner

will dtsplace the tab by the same

amount. The result will be two tape

ends visible in the picture area in

each of the two frames adiacent to

the splice (see Figure 9).

Cinernascope Type

Figure 12

Preparat/'on of Cinemascope and

wide-screen fi/ms for sp/icing with the

K/'dde Automatic Sp//"cer,

Wide-Screen Type

ln 35 mm film exchanges or otherareas

that may be using the Kidde Automatic

Splicer, the following directions should

be read and carefully observed'

1. Make sure that the machine is

switched OFF and in the neutral

position.

2. Place a small metal plate, or

something equally rigid. over the

open gap in the splicing area.

Cut the two ends of the film to be

spliced as illustrated in Figure 12

Use scissors or a small cutting

board.

Place the two ends of the properly

cut film overthe alignment pins so

that the splice overlap is in frame and

nearthe center between the pins.

Bring down the film holding clamp

on the right side. lfthe spliceris

equipped with small pins, make sure

the edge of the film is aligned, or

straight.

To make the splice, apply the

splicing tape as described in

directions 4 and 5 for the bench†top

splicer.

6. If you are using one-frame precut

tape tabs, shift the two film sections

in either direction on the splicer so

that the alignment pins can be utllized

to register and centerthe tapetab

ln this case, since the overlap is

narrower, each tab can be applied

to coincide with the other without the

displacement necessary when using

a bench-top splicer.

A butt tape splice may be considered

somewhat superior to an overlap

tape splice only because it is less

noticeable on the screen. A properly

made butt splioe depends on a precise

cut on both film sections. The two cut

edges must mate perfeotly and be held

in rigid contact while the splicing tape

is applied to both sides. If either of

these requirements is not met, the

splice will be prone to hinging or

collapse during proiection. Butt splices

cannot be readily made on the splicers

most commonly found in theaters and

film exchanges The precise cutting

and rigid holding of the film sections

that are necessary while the splicing

tape is applied cannot be accomplished

with such splicers. By manipulation,

it ls possible to out the film so that the

sections will butt in frame, but the

quality of the cut will generally preclude

a successful splice. Also, the lack of a

means to hold the film tightlytogether

at the butt white the tape is being

applied further lessens the chances for

asuccessfulsplice lfbuttsplicingis

desirable, it is strongly recommended

that you acquire a splicer specifically

designed for that purpose.

Among the bench~top splicersthat can

mal-

Guillotine Film Splicer, FGU~013,shown

in Figure 7. The Guillofine splicer uses

unperforated tape, which is perforated

as the spliceis completed. This

splicer can make only butt splices.

Regardless of the instructions, which

may accompany a butt splicer (except

Guillotinel, it is recommended that a

two~frame (eight perforation) tape

section be used to make the splice. If

one-frame precut tabs are being used,

it is obvlous that they need not be

displaced when applied because no

overlap is present.

No matterwhich type of tape splice you

employ, lt is important that the film

surfaces in the area of the splice be

clean and free of oily deposits. Dirt will

cause bubbles and blemishes while

oily film will prevent proper aclhesion.

lf a tape splice is not aligned properly

or produces wrinklescarefullylifta

corner with a razor blade or Knife and

peel the tab off; then replace it with a

new tab. If you are splicing film with

magnetic sound tracks, it might be

desirable to use a one~frame tab on the

track side to rriinlmize sound

interruption.

IMPORTANT: Do notapply tape in

the picture area only/ The protruding

corners of the film edge could catch

at a sprocket pad roller and cause

damage.

ln review, it is important in all phases

of spiicing. whether cement ortape,

70 mm orB mm, that strict attention be

given to cleanliness, technique, and

splicing materials. Relaxation in any of

these areas can causefilm performance

difficulties, possible film damage,

and interruption of the presentation.